Lazy Otter - 5 February 2013
Following the snow and its resultant flooding a couple of
weeks ago, we had about a week of fair weather and mild temperatures. Now we’re
back to below average temperatures and wintery showers so another good reason
to have a few days on board. Do I really need a reason?
I arrived this morning, just before lunch and made sure
Skylark was OK. I started the engine to give the batteries a boost, lit the
fire and baled out a little water from the bilge under the calorifier. The pressure
release valve is still dripping water; too much in my opinion. I’ll have it
looked at again. Lunch was a pot of tuna/pasta courtesy of Tesco’s of Ely.
In the afternoon, I took a walk down the north side of
the river to Stretham Pump and came back on the south side. As I got back to
the boat, the darkening clouds started to offload a bit of snow – good timing.
I called home and settled in to watch a some afternoon tv over a coffee.
Tomorrow, the plan is to go into Cambridge by mid morning
and suss out the Scott Polar Expedition Museum. The great outflux (is that a
word?) of traffic in the afternoon means I will leave no later than 3.30pm
otherwise I will just add to the congestion.
Cambridge - 6 February 2013
There’s something about being on a boat that induces
lethargy. Last night, I crawled into my very snug 1000g down sleeping bag at
10.30 and didn’t crawl out of it until 9.00 0’clock this morning. I must have
looked like a Death’s Head Hawk Moth emerging from its chrysalis. My
metamorphosis was aided by a very comfortable 6 degrees – almost spring-like. I
had breakfast and a strong coffee, and then prepared for my trip into
Cambridge. When I say ‘prepared’, what I really mean is I got dressed and left
the boat.
I got into Cambridge at about 10.30 and went straight to
the Scott Polar Institute.
What a great place to visit. It’s got a great deal
of information and exhibits about life within the Arctic and Antarctic regions
but also actual things belonging to the men who went with Scott on that last
fateful trip. It’s quite moving to see the everyday bits and pieces used by the
men who died; their compasses, clothes, tins of food, sewing kits, and most
moving, their note books and letters home, many of which were the last ones
they ever wrote.
Robert Falcon Scott was hailed as a great hero but he was
also an unlikely leader. He almost didn’t get into the Navy because he was of
tiny stature and prone to illness but he rose through the ranks to become one
of the greatest leaders of the time. But how good was he? He clearly had what
it took to mount an ambitious expedition to the South Pole, to encourage the
patronage of wealthy benefactors and to lead a group of strong, like-minded men
into a world of hardship and possible death but it’s interesting to compare him
with Ernest Shackleton, one of his contemporaries.
Scott was a naval man through and through and his approach
to planning the trip was well structured but a lot of his preparation was
poorly informed. For instance, while he took dogs to pull his sledges, he also
took ponies which were known to be poorly suited to an arctic environment. He even
forgot to take worming tablets for the dogs; an oversight that caused
significant problems for the teams. He also opted for the latest in Arctic
vehicles; small tracked sledges powered by simple diesel engines. He was warned
these would soon break down and, unlike a dead pony that could be fed to the
dogs, machinery would just be a useless lump of metal. He persisted in his
approach and paid for it later, dearly.
His unwavering determination may be explained by his
upbringing and naval training. As a Naval Officer, he insisted on a strict
discipline over his men and even required his subordinate Officers to maintain
a rigid distance from the lower ranks as would happen in any naval vessel. Some
of the civilian members of the team found his approach very difficult to live
with.
Shackleton, on the other hand, was raised through the ranks
of the merchant fleet and, as a result, had a much more flexible approach with
his men, his planning and his overall management of the situations threy found
themselves in. His foresight was arguably better than Scott’s and, when
disaster threatened, it can also be argued that his leadership was better as a
result. His ‘from the front’ form of leadership motivated his men and was
probably the main reason why he was able to save his crew from what often
appeared to be certain death on the ice flows.
One of his greatest assets, which would later be seen as
a shortcoming, was his optimism. When the going was tough, his optimism
motivated his men to keep going and give more but as the going got even
tougher, his optimism began to wear thin with the men. In their diaries, his
men often remarked that Shackleton appeared to lose his grip on reality. As
time would tell, he managed to overcome the greatest of challenges. His
optimism, however formed and presented, must have played a significant part in
his achievements.
Scott, on the other hand, expected to reach the Pole and,
while he had planned his return journey, he failed to plan sufficiently for
disaster, unlike Shackleton. So, when disaster started to unroll, after finding
that Amundsen had beaten them to the Pole, he and his crew were both demoralised
and poorly prepared. His dogged determination to reach his base camp was
regarded as a strength and he was hailed as a hero after news of his death
reached England but, if you read the facts surrounding his attempt to escape
the ice, you will see that he made poor decisions and mistakes that ultimately led
to his death and the others who followed him.
Clearly they both acheived much more than I could ever achieve so, please don't take exception to my comments. But however you view them; their good points or their bad points, you can't help but feel awestruck by what they achieved.
But that doesn't alter my view, with the benefit of hindsight, if I had the choice of which man to follow, I would have hitched up with Shackleton.
I highly recommend a visit – it brought a lump to
my throat!
On my way back to the Landy, I popped into the
Fitzwilliam Museum for some more culture. What a grand place. And it's free!
It has a fantastic collection of
paintings, sculptures, ceramics, and things like that. Many of the pictures
portrayed naked buxom women languishing on divans being pointed at by scantily
dressed men and boys. I find this an odd subject and it wears a bit thin when
you’ve seen a couple of hundred of them but it seemed to tickle the fancy of
the rich and famous during the enlightenment. A lot of it was not exactly my
‘cup of tea’. Or as an old friend of
mine would say, ‘I wouldn't open the flaps of my wigwam to let that in’,
but I don’t think he was talking about fine art at the time.
Anyway, I enjoyed
seeing the fairly modern pictures by Monet and Rodin, and I would recommend a
visit even if this type of high art doesn’t float your boat. You never
know, you might find something that does.
The inside of the building is a work of art. I managed to get past the guards looking for people armed with cameras.
Leaving Cambridge at 3.00pm was good not only to miss the
rush hour traffic but some pretty heavy clouds had started to roll in. By the
time I got back to Skylark, it was raining in a very wintery sort of way. I
teased the fire back to life and settled in for the rest of the day and night.
Not sure what I will do tomorrow. I’ll wait and see if I
wake up first.
Ely in the sun - 7 February 2013
Emerging from my chrysalis at 8.00 am, I decided to pop
into Ely. The weather was better than I expected; quite warm and sunny. In a
way, if I’d known the weather was going to be so nice, I would have taken the
boat rather than the Landy. Anyway, apart from a bit of window shopping, I did
some ‘hunting and gathering’ in Tesco’s and headed back to Skylark for lunch.
The afternoon turned cloudy so I decided to do a few jobs
on the boat including more work to seal the portholes. That done, and with
still a couple of hours daylight left, I went for a walk down the river.
Everything was quiet although I did see a Barn Owl flying off over the fields.
It was a shame I hadn’t noticed it while it was sitting in the nearby tree but
their light brown camouflaged plumage makes it difficult to see them until they
take flight.
I spent a quiet evening on board with a half bottle of
plonk and a plate full of very fine pasty and tangy rice. I watched Silent
Witness (or ‘Scare me Sh!tless’ as Kay calls it) and turned back into my
chrysalis when my batteries started to dim the lights. I plan to go home
tomorrow.
Home – 8 February 2013
A cold morning but I’m still cosy inside Skylark. While I
packed up my things, I listened to the weather forecast. A couple of quiet days
are expected then some more of the cold stuff. I’ll keep my diary clear (ha ha)
to enable me to pop back if I need or want to.